Comments for this article (35)

• Lucas says:

  12.18.2011 at 5:03 pm

  Woohoo! Thanks!
• Jordan Roth says:

  12.18.2011 at 5:13 pm

  I’m on it.
• Mark Civick says:

  12.18.2011 at 5:16 pm

  Woot thanks!
• Robert Thom says:

  12.18.2011 at 5:37 pm

  Thanks Marky Mark
• Kirby says:

  12.18.2011 at 6:59 pm

  YAY!!!! I am soooo excited!
• Mark H. says:

  12.18.2011 at 7:24 pm

  Thanks Mark.
• Seth says:

  12.18.2011 at 7:31 pm

  Awesome! Been waiting for this! Thanks Mark!!!
• mtbiker says:

  12.18.2011 at 8:46 pm

  i am all for saving a tree with the PDF files
  but i need the hard copy how can i get one ?

  thanks
  marc
• Matt says:

  12.18.2011 at 10:27 pm

  Brill… off to get my copy now… 😉

  Happy Holidays to you to Mark… 🙂
• Simon Ksiazek says:

  12.18.2011 at 11:05 pm

  Mark, I just bought the new no non sense guide and its a gold mine! What about video access. I logged on and I don’t see any videos that are supposed to come with guide…or are they? Please let me know.

  Merry Christmas!
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.18.2011 at 11:06 pm

  Thanks Simon! If you log out, then log back in, you should be able to see all the videos now as I added you to the NNG 2 videos page.
• Beth says:

  12.18.2011 at 11:59 pm

  WooHoo! Thanks bunches and Merry Christmas.
• Gregory says:

  12.19.2011 at 8:52 am

  Hi Mark; just recently switched from reef to FOWLR and your posting about this peaked my interest. What guide – version 1, version 2 or the cruise control guide would be most beneficial for me. Don’t need all the reef info.
  Kindly advise. Great site. Glad to see it’s exploded in popularity. I know you are saving a lot of us from making expensive mistakes and unnecessarily killing lots of wild caught animals.
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.19.2011 at 9:11 am

  Greg…how long has your tank been up and rolling? And, are you looking to change up your lighting since you are going to FOWLR?
• Gregory says:

  12.19.2011 at 9:16 am

  hey it’s been up for about 4 years. Tired of loosing to many corals. Upgraded to led lighting a year ago so no just keeping that. No sense in downgrading, probably wouldn’t get much for old led. I do have some ricordia and pulsing zenia and if they get eaten so be it but they are in there until they are gone. G
• David B. says:

  12.19.2011 at 9:50 pm

  You don’t have to have live rock to have a Fish only tank. Live Rock is just another form of filtration that could be replaced with bioballs or any kind of biomedia even the biowheels on the HOT filters could do the job. Live rock is just one of the more popular methods.
• Epicurus says:

  12.20.2011 at 12:19 pm

  Mark, are the copies send digitally, since I’m interested in especially the light part of the tank part 2 guide.

  Since I’m in Europe it’s hard to get stuff from the USA, and especially expensive.

  Also how do i set a picture in my profile, i can’t seem to get that part working, nor a website.
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.20.2011 at 9:55 pm

  Epicurus…yes..the copies are instantly available as PDF files after your purchase is complete. Shipping electrons to Europe is easy!
• Gregory Pierce says:

  12.20.2011 at 9:59 pm

  Mark you didn’t answer my question about which publication would be the most beneficial.
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.20.2011 at 10:03 pm

  Gregory…sorry for the no reply! Your question is an interesting one…you are giving up the reef tank route, so what is your goal with your FOWLR tank? I.e..species tank? predator tank?

  AND…are you open to trying the reef tank route again?
• Gregory says:

  12.20.2011 at 10:44 pm

  I guess I may try it again as I have all the equipment but pretty discouraged. Not predator tank just nice exotic looking fish.
• Simon says:

  12.21.2011 at 9:54 am

  Hi Mark,

  Looks like the videos are all there. It was just a matter of logging in and out of Firefox. They all work beautifully. Once again your No nonsense guide is great. I can’t believe something so straight forward does not exist in the saltwater tank hobby. It blows my mind how many books are way to scientific for the average layman to start with. It’s really nice to hear honest information about whats needed and whats not when it comes to the hobby. Keep up the great work cause you know that we can’t get enough of this stuff!! LOL!
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.21.2011 at 10:17 am

  Thanks for the tip re: Firefox Simon and thank for the nice words about the guide. When I set out to make the guide that’s exactly what I wanted to do – make it easy to understand so people can get started quickly and have minimal stumbling blocks. This is too great a hobby for people to only experience frustration!
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.21.2011 at 10:21 am

  Greg…tell me more about your losing corals – what kind, what happened to them, etc?
• Gregory says:

  12.21.2011 at 11:16 am

  The only thing that survives long-term are ricorida or xenia or the pesky kenya tree. i’ve got all the latest equipment. Tried numerous supplements etc. Water parameters look good. Tried anemones, goneopora, torch, pipe organ etc etc.
• Robbie Clark says:

  12.22.2011 at 10:53 pm

  Hi Mark
  I have a question about dead rock (we call it reef bones in the uk) I am reading a lot about curing and having to soak it in RO with regular water changes for 4 weeks because of it leaching po4, Whats your opinion on this? and what do you do to prepare your dead rocks to go into your aquarium.

  The reason i ask is i just bought your no nonsense guide vol1 and i plan on using dead rock.

  Thanks
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.22.2011 at 11:06 pm

  Robbie…Here in the US several retailers sell dead rock that has been treated to remove the PO4. That being said, there are somethings to note about dead rock:

  #1: There is a difference between dead rock and rock that was once live rock and is now dead. The “dead” rock we can get here was never in the ocean or an aquarium. Therefore there isn’t the potential for the once-alive stuff on the rock to release phosphates

  #2: If you are concerned about the dead rock you have, you can soak a piece in RODI water overnight. Check your PO4 levels before you add the rock, soak the rock, then check the PO4 again after 24 hrs. If they have risen a lot, then the rock is releasing PO4 and should be soaked via the method you talked about.
• Donnie says:

  12.23.2011 at 1:34 am

  Hello Mark, still looking for you in Tennessee!!! I need your in put here. What all do you keep a close check on in your reef tank. This reason that I’m asking this question, what type of test kits do you use or tanks. Ive used many over the years. With new tech on the market today, what’s the alternative and the cheapest on the pocket book. Please give info on all checks; cal, mag, ph, nitrate;ect. Any thing you check on your reef. I know there are many others that would like this info as well.
  Still adding the 4 Radions to my tank right after the first of the year.
  Thank you, still looking for you here in TENNNESSEE
  Donnie
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.23.2011 at 4:42 pm

  Greg…check your email.
• Christopher So says:

  12.23.2011 at 8:49 pm

  Hi,
  Thanks for the holiday special! I purchased your cruise control guide few months ago and I have to say that guide is awesome!!
  So happy that you have a special on NNG and NNG2 and I just purchased both NNG and NNG2! One question though, normally how long it will take for me to access those videos?

  Thanks,
• Mark Callahan says:

  12.24.2011 at 10:14 pm

  Donnie…i outline the test kits I use here

  Let me know when you are ready for the Radions!
• Calireefer says:

  12.25.2011 at 10:59 am

  I have to say I agree with you 100% about “PAR”. I have been testing PAR readings for several years now and come to the same conclusion, it is a good guideline but nothing to stress over.

  One thing about PAR is it is a measurement of the entire spectrum, where as we really only care about royal blue spectrum for growth. When you read the # on the PAR meter you have to take into account what type of spectrum your reading and how much. In terms of coral growth, a 200 PAR LED light can equal a 400 PAR MH or T5 light due to the spectrum. Most people don’t understand that and when they switch from MH/T5 to LED they try and keep PAR #s the same. In reality one should run LEDs much lower initially since they put out a lot more 455nm light than most other types of lighting, which can give the zooxanthellae too much light, causing browning or bleaching or corals.
• Jim says:

  12.30.2011 at 9:37 am

  Hey man–I’ve had a FOWLR tank for almost two years now, and I’m trying to make it a reef tank. What chemicals should I be testing/adding, and can I buy them from a place like petsmart, or do I have to go online from live aquaria? I saw your vid on MACNA (sp?), and I understand I should only add what I can test for, but can I buy all the test kits in one, or separately? I’m not sure of what products to buy…

  Also, I have a red mandarin, I’ve been feeding him the frozen Copepods…What are you using in your tank to naturally produce them? Please specify…I’m assuming I have to get all my chems right first..Thanks!!
• Peter Howells says:

  03.13.2013 at 1:57 pm

  Hi Mark how soon after your tank has cycled would you recommend installing a dual media ( gfo + carbon ) reactor?

  Thanks….Peter
• Mark Callahan says:

  03.13.2013 at 2:23 pm

  Peter…2-3 weeks after

Comments are closed.